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Totally Tubular Head Hugger

Totally Tubular Head Hugger

design by Denelle Bratcher of Knuts4Knits

Totally Tubular

Skill: advanced beginner

The following is my version of the popular “panta” patterns floating around the Net. It’s great for the times you’d like a hat to keep your head and ears warm, but you still want to keep your hair pulled up. I’ve modified it so that there is less bulk at the nape and the slipped stitch edging looks good with the ribbed rows. It’s meant to be pulled a bit lower on the brow, so I widened the top part of the band.

If you like the pattern, please drop a line. If you find mistakes, I’d appreciate hearing about those as well. I’m still new at this. Boy, it takes a lot of time to write down each step. I appreciate the “real” designers even more now!
Supplies:

About 80 yards of Blue Sky Alpaca, DK weight . You could use a worsted weight as well if you’d like a slightly wider version.

sizes 4 and 6 needles

safety pin to mark right side (or tie a piece of contrasting yarn)

tapestry needle for weaving ends
Gauge:
approx. 5 st per inch

Size:
adult, one size fits most (finished piece is 19″; stretches to 20 or 21″)

Shaping Stitches used:

M1: Make 1 stitch

K2 tog :  Knit 2 stitches together as one

SSK:  Slip one knitwise, knit the next st, lift slipped stitch over that stitch

Sl1 wyif:  Slip one with yarn in front
Note: When slipping one (Sl1) for the three-stitch tubular edge, slip the yarn purlwise with yarn in front (wyif). Be sure to return yarn to the back when you make the subsequent knit stitches. The first and last three stitches will be done in this manner throughout the pattern. It makes a very nice, neat, rounded edge. (Thank you, Annie Modesitt.) It’s easily memorized, but I’ve chosen to italicize the edge stitches to make them more discernable.


Pattern:
With smaller needles, CO 16 st.

(a provisional CO is optional if you want to graft the ends or use the three-needle bind-off)

Section A:

(RS) Row1: K1, Sl 1 wyif, K1, *P1, K2* repeat from * to * until 4 st remain; P1, K1, Sl 1 wyif, K1.

Mark the right side.

(WS)Row 2: Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif, *K1, P2* repeat from * to * until 4 st remain; K1, Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl1 1 wyif.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 1.5″. End with RS row.

Section B:

(WS)Row 1: : Sl1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif, *K1, M1, P2* repeat until 4 st remain; K1, M1, Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif. (20 st)

(RS) Row 2: K1, Sl1 wyif, K1, *P2, K2* repeat until 5 st remain; P2, K1, Sl 1 wyif, K1.

(WS)Row 3: Sl1 wyif, K1, Sl1 wyif, *K2, P2* repeat until 5 st remain; K2, Sl1 wyif, K1, Sl1 wyif.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 2″. End with RS row.

Section C:

Change to larger needles,

(WS)Row 1: Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl wyif, *M1, K2, M1, P2,* repeat until 5 st remain; M1, K2, M1, Sl wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif. ( 28 st)

(RS) Row 2: K1, Sl1 wyif, K1, *P4, K2,* repeat until 7 st remain; P4, K1, Sl1 wyif, K1.

(WS)Row 3: Sl1 wyif, K1, Sl1 wyif, *K4, P2* repeat until 7 st remain; K4, Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl1 wyif.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 2.5″. End with RS row.

Section D:
(WS)Row1: Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif, *M1, K4, M1, P2* repeat until 7 st remain; M1, K4, M1, Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl1 wyif. (36 st)

(RS) Row 2: K1, Sl 1 wyif, K1, *P6, K2* repeat until until 9 st remain; P6, K1, Sl 1 wyif, K1.

(WS)Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif, *K6, P2* until 9 st remain; K6, Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 7″. End with RS row.
Section E (begin to decrease):

(WS)Row 1: Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif, *K2 tog, K2, K2 tog, P2* repeat until 9 st remain; k2 tog, K2, K2 tog, Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif.(28 sts)

(RS) Row 2: K1, Sl 1 wyif, K1, *P4, K2* repeat until 7 st remain; P4, K1, Sl 1 wyif, K1.

(WS)Row 3: Sl1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif, *K4,P2* repeat until 7 st remain; K4, Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl1 wyif.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 2.5″. End with RS row.

Section F:

topgrheadhugger.JPG

Change to smaller needles,
(WS)Row 1: Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif, *ssk, K2 tog, P2* repeat until 7 st remain; ssk, K 2 tog, Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl1 wyif. (20 st)

(RS)Row 2: K1, Sl 1 wyif, K1, *P2, K2* repeat until 5 st remain; P2, K1, Sl1 wyif, K1.

(WS)Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl1 wyif, *K2, P2* repeat until 5 st remain; K2, Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 2″. End with RS row.

Section G:

(WS) Row1: Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif, * K2 tog, P2* repeat until 5 st remain; K2 tog, Sl1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif. (16 st)

(RS) Row 2: K1, Sl1 wyif, K1, *P1, K2* repeat until 4 st remain; P1, K1, Sl 1 wyif, K1.

(WS)Row 3: Sl1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif, *k1, P2* repeat until 4 st remain, K1, Sl 1 wyif, K1, Sl 1 wyif.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 1.5 “. End with RS row.

TO FINISH: Bind off stitches and sew narrow ends together, weaving in the tail, OR, for a seamless finish, you can kitchener stitch the ends together OR , if you used a provisional cast on, you can put the live stitches on a needle and use a three-needle bind off.

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How to Make a Cat Bed from an Old Sweater

 You may want to see the corresponding Wiki How-To site entry for a slightly better tutorial (same general info, but better presentation)

 

1. After *felting your old wool sweater, lay it out flat. With yarn and a tapestry needle, stitch the seamed edge of the sleeve to the side of the sweater, about half way down the sleeve from where the armpit meets the side seam.
(I used contrasting yarn to make the stitches more visible.)

*Note: You don’t have to felt the sweater, but doing so will make the fabric more durable.

halfsleeve1.JPG

2. Fold the bottom edge of the sweater up and place the sleeve in front of it. You want to roll (or fold) the bottom up far enough that both sleeve cuff edges will be able to overlap slightly when place in front of it.

sleeveinfrontofbottomedge.JPG

3. Secure the sleeve to the top of the rolled up sweater edge with a whip stitch or a blanket stitch. Remember that you’re going to stuff the sleeves, so be sure to stitch only through the top layer of the sleeve.

4. Repeat with the other sleeve. As the cuffs overlap slightly in front, put one cuff just inside of the other and stitch down the outside cuff edge along the top layer, just enough that you’ll be able to keep the stuffing inside the tube you’ve just created with the sleeves.

repeatwithothersleeve.JPG

5. Now make a running stitch from one “armpit” to the other. Create an arched shape to make a rounder bed. Be sure to go through both layers of sweater fabric. You should now have a “channel” that can be stuffed with batting or old rags (or strips of old sweaters). Stuff until you get a sausage-like ring. If you want to pad the bottom, now is the time to do that as well.

stitchalongbottom.JPG

6. Finally, stitch the neck opening closed. Give to your favorite kitty/puppy and consider making another to donate to your local pet shelter. It took more time to post this than to make the bed if that tells you how quick and easy this project is!

finishedbed.JPG

 

I’ve begun a gallery of finished beds with happy kitties (or small dogs) in their cozy sweater beds! I’d love to see what designs and improvements y’all come up with!

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